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In the mirror, I appear to be wearing huge shimmering pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Children sit in a water feature acting as ocean creatures, and nearby rests a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, alongside a tall pile of bedding. It embodies the domain of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 1800s widely adored authors. I'm visiting the city of Odense, located on Fyn in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to investigate the writer's enduring legacy in his home town a century and a half after his passing, and to discover a couple of magical stories of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the town's museum celebrating the author, incorporating his original residence. An expert explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For visitors who come to the city looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redesign of the city center, redirecting a major road, made it possible to reimagine how the local celebrity could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge granted Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the design. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with interwoven curving spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with humour, sarcasm and viewpoint,” says the expert. Even the gardens take this approach: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for large beings, it's created to make you feel small,” he explains, an objective accomplished by strategic landscaping, experimenting with elevation, proportion and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

Andersen wrote several personal accounts and regularly provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus takes this approach fully; often the opinions of his companions or excerpts of letters are presented to gently question the his narrative of incidents. “The author is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” says the representative. The result is a fascinating rapid journey of his personal story and creations, thought processes and best-loved stories. It is stimulating and whimsical, for grown-ups and kids, with a bonus lower-level imaginary world, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Discovering the City

Back in the real world, the modest urban center of Odense is charming, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings colored in cheerful shades. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the traffic lights show the author with his distinctive characteristic hat, bronze footmarks give a no-cost guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this focus reaches its height with the regular Andersen celebration, which marks the author’s legacy through art, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the multi-day event had hundreds of events, most of which were complimentary. During my time in Odense, I meet painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I hear contemporary performances and observe an remarkable evening show with graceful performers lowering from the city building and suspended from a crane. Still to come this year are talks, hands-on activities and, expanding the oral history further than the writer, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a fortress, and this region boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes throughout the region

Biking Adventures

As in other Danish regions, cycles are the perfect means to navigate in Odense and a “bike path” curves through the urban core. From my accommodation, I cycle to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Ø, a small island joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers picnic here in the evening, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment fishing, water sports or swimming.

Back in the city, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is inspired by Andersen themes and narratives. The poem the patriotic piece is highlighted at the restaurant, and manager the host reads extracts, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. This is a practice frequent in my days in the city, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it appears narrating is constantly on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Every excellent magical places require a fortress, and the island contains 123 castles and manor houses across the island. Taking day trips from Odense, I explore the historic fortress, the region's most intact Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I wonder if she would notice a pea through a pile of {mattresses